A remarkable value, Steltzner’s 2008 Claret (an 8,000-case blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc) tastes like a high quality cru bourgois from Bordeaux. Restrained but impressive aromas of black cherries, loamy soil, black currants and licorice jump from the glass of this dark plum/ruby-colored wine. Medium-bodied, elegant, pure, savory and velvety-textured, this delicious red is capable of lasting for another 5-6 years. Bravo!Tel. (707) 252-7272; Fax (707) 252-2079

Dry and brittle, with some sharp tannic edges. Yet it’s good and ripe in blackberries, cherries, currants and cedar. Decent price for a Napa Cab. ——S.H.(6/1/2011)—— 86