If there is any fault to find for the price with Weingut Stadt Krems’ 2006 Gruner Veltliner Sandgrube it is that the wine is simply too concentrated for “intro level”! Green bean, lentil, lemon, and brine in the nose lead to a saline, bright, pungent palate and a strikingly sappy, faintly bitter cling. Although pushing 13% alcohol, we still get some sense of lightness and refreshment that one expects from this consistently outstanding value. While I was visiting at the end of June, incidentally, savage hail shredded the better part of the Sandgrube. But within 36 hours, poor Miesbauer’s demeanor had greatly improved, as growers were offering to sell him fruit to alleviate the inevitable shortage that this estate will have experienced in 2007. Fritz Miesbauer waited patiently and harvested well into November to achieve ripeness. The results were mixed, but the successes more than uphold this estate’s growing reputation for good value. Miesbauer is now also responsible for the wines of the Gottweig monastery whose vinification and packaging have undergone a major overhaul. The early results are promising, if not yet comparable to those at Stadt KremsImporter: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700 These wines are also imported by Vin Divino
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