Stadt Krems Riesling Grillenparz, Kremstal, Austria

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The Stadt Krems 2010 Riesling Grillenparz Reserve exhibits impressively palpable extract and a satiny texture, though rather sweet-sour flavors. Mirabelle, quince, and gooseberry mingle with crushed stone and brown spices for a persistently flavorful if awkwardly tart impression. This might gain some depth and harmony in a few years but I would tentatively not plan on holding it past the next four. Fritz Miesbauer lost roughly half his crop to 2010 weather and a large underground section of his relatively new winery collapsed due to unidentified structural defect. Was there any good news? Yes: Thank goodness, it happened in the middle of the night on a Sunday when nobody was on the premises; and the wines turned out well! Picking here and at the sister winery Stift Gottweig began in the second week of October, but went all the way up until November 19. The lighter wines were de-acidified in the must, but with his top Gruner Veltliner Miesbauer utilized extended pre-fermentative skin contact to drop the acidity (even though this gets to tartaric acid only, not at malic). “To be honest,” says Miesbauer, “I didn’t think at the time of harvest that the wines this year would be capable of what the best of them now show.” Miesbauer was also a bit nervous about some of his wines fermenting through February, which is late for his estates.Importer: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The Stadt Krems 2007 Riesling Grillenparz Reserve – from a steep, Urgestein vineyard of great importance to Krems, and being meticulously re-terraced and replanted after the floods and landslides of 2002 – smells of iris and salt spray. Meaty on the palate, with an impressive sense of stuffing, this features apricot and apricot kernel in a concentrated and persistent finish. When one considers that these are young vines, the quality of the site becomes evident. This should be worth following for at least 3-4 years. Fritz Miesbauer and the winery of the city of Krems are going from strength to strength. Miesbauer had already recovered from a couple of hair-graying nights when I saw him for the second time last year in late June.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700