Weingut Stadt Krems Wachtberg Gruner Veltliner, Kremstal, Austria

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Out of twelve different (late October and early November) pickings and lots, ten were selected to become the 2006 Gruner Veltliner Wachtberg. At 14.4% alcohol, and given its relatively massive and borderline over-ripe character, it is, as Miesbauer admits, “on the cusp.” Soft pear, pineapple, nut oils are the principle themes here, with low-toned suggestions of tobacco and malt. The finish is powerful but slightly drying, a legacy I suspect of fruit dessication and high alcohol. This was given some skin contact, fermented spontaneously, and spent time in cask, but I would not necessarily hold the results against Miesbauer for having pursued those approaches. The ripest pickings – “from blue grapes,” as Miesbauer put it – were vinified in large ovals and made for an interesting, low-toned, and imposingly rich but slightly warm and bitter reserve bottling. Fritz Miesbauer waited patiently and harvested well into November to achieve ripeness. The results were mixed, but the successes more than uphold this estate’s growing reputation for good value. Miesbauer is now also responsible for the wines of the Gottweig monastery whose vinification and packaging have undergone a major overhaul. The early results are promising, if not yet comparable to those at Stadt KremsImporter: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700 These wines are also imported by Vin Divino

The 2005 Gruner Veltliner Wachtberg, from half-century old vines at a high elevation, and vinified in a single cask of only 2,000-bottle capacity, smells of green beans and snap peas in classic Gruner Veltliner manner. Sweet and sizzling Szechuan pepper notes enter on the palate, and the bean and pea flavors are underlain by a white Burgundy-like milled grain character and creamy, leesy richness. Resin and herbs enter into the creamy, broad finish, and I sense that this impressively endowed and imposingly rich wine just needs some time to clarify its character. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Ripe, fruity and intense on the nose, with aromas of lime, orange zest and peach. The palate develops more complexity, adding hints of pepper and dry minerals to bold tangerine flavors. Attractive and flashy, but just lacks a bit of length on the finish. Imported by Vin Divino. ——J.C.(3/1/2006)—— 88