A brilliant Cabernet Franc from Tony Soter, this dense ruby/purple-colored 2002 boasts aromas of spice, sweet black cherries, cassis, licorice, and flowers, medium body, and an exceptionally pure, elegant style. It caresses the palate with significant depth, yet is light on its feet. Concentrated and flavorful yet ethereal, drink this beauty over the next 7-10 years, although I suspect it will last even longer. Tel. (503) 662-5600; Fax (503) 662-5606

I've criticized Napa Cab Franc as too one-dimensional to bottle on its own, but this wine is so fruity, so charming that it borders on the exception to the rule. It's a soft, complex beauty, silky and delicate, brimming with cherry and oak flavors and a lovely, elegant finish.——S.H.(4/1/2006)—— 90