The 2006 Pinot Noir Beacon Hill reveals a touch of eucalyptus in its attractive perfume. Darker, denser, and more structured than its North Valley sibling, this well-balanced, lengthy effort will evolve for 2-3 years and be at its best from 2011 to 2020. If our economic doldrums have caused you to forego Dom Perignon Rose and Roederer Cristal Rose, keep in mind that for the price of one bottle of those stellar Champagnes, you could purchase an entire case of Tony Soter’s Beacon Hill Brut Rose. Tel. (503) 852-6944; www.sotervineyards.com

The 2005 Pinot Noir “Beacon Hill” is dark colored. The fruit is dark, more black than red cherry with black raspberry also making an appearance. The wine is medium-bodied, supple-textured, with ample blue fruits to more than balance the acidity and tannin of the 2005 vintage. Barrel samples of Soter’s three 2006 Pinot Noirs are very promising. This is a friendlier vintage with fatter, riper fruit and higher alcohol. I would anticipate something special from Tony Soter in the this vintage. Renowned Napa Valley winemaker Tony Soter (Etude, Spottswoode, among others) has made a full-time commitment to Willamette Valley, moving his family, building a winery, and planting a vineyard.