The 2009 Red Belly is a gorgeous wine and a terrific value. Layers of fruit flow from this graceful, fleshy red. This supple, delicious wine is best enjoyed in its vinous youth. I loved it. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. www.skylarkwine.com

The least impressive but still very competent, Cotes du Rhone-like effort, the 2007 Red Belly, is a rather unusual blend for a California wine of 47% Carignane, 47% Syrah, and the rest Grenache. The wine displays a lot of earth, herb, and meatiness, with a medium to dark ruby color, decent concentration, but slight angularity and austerity. Nevertheless, it is very Mediterranean in its aromas and flavors. Drink it over the next several years. www.skylarkwine.com