There is an odd, piercing edge to the aromas, a mix of acetic acid and pungent herb, with a hint of diesel. Somehow it’s not off-putting, just atypical. The light, tart fruit is a mix of rhubarb and cranberry, very earthy and tasting of dirt and bark in the finish. This could be quite pleasant with a hearty, rustic dish such as beef Bourgogne. ——P.G.(2/1/2009)—— 85