This producer does a marvelous job fashioning vivacious, zesty, fruity whites with no wood influence. Impressive is the 1999 Unoaked Chardonnay. Notes of mineral and lemon custard compete in this ripe, explosively fruity, medium-bodied Chardonnay. Readers who carp about too much wood in their wines would be well-served to check out this beauty. However, the one caveat is that it needs to be drunk during its first 12 months of life.Imported by The Australian Premium Wine Collection, John Larchet, USA Wine West, LLC, San Rafael, CA; phone: (800)-485-5753 and Chicago Brands, Chicago, IL; tel. (312) 466-9300.

The 1998 Chardonnay exhibits lovely honeyed citrus fruit, refreshing notes of peaches, and a lively, unwooded style where the fruit dominates. Drink it over the next year.Imported by The Australian Premium Wine Collection, John Larchet, USA Wine West, LLC, San Rafael, CA; phone: (800)-485-5753 and Chicago Brands, Chicago, IL; tel. (312) 466-9300.