The 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinsetz seems to pick up the themes of the little “Gobelsburger” and subject them to complexifying and entertaining variations. (Wine is entertainment, right?) Sharing with that wine 12.5% alcohol and a cool melony fruit tinged with herbs, lime, cress, and pepper, this Renner introduces richness of texture, more prominent wet stone minerality, and a combination of stuffing and ripe flavors with elegance and juiciness that is the essence of the best of 2005. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Urgestein ($23.00; 86), 2004 Riesling Tradition ($41.00; 86+?), 2004 St. Laurent Klassik (not available; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300