Quite the classic, with rich toffee and nut-like aromas that come through with piercing power. The briny palate is all about dried citrus and nuts, while the earthy, long finish has an unmistakable and very nice mushroom quality. This is a precise, somewhat reserved and dainty amontillado, but it’s structured and quite real as far as style and impact. ——M.S.(8/1/2003)—— 91