The 2009 Syrah Verna’s Vineyard is a big, juicy wine loaded with black fruit, bacon fat, smoke and licorice. It shows considerable class and personality in its opulent, super-ripe fruit and generous, radiant personality. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Chad Melville manages the vineyards for his family’s Melville estate and makes the Samsara wines in a small rented facility in Lompoc. The wines are fermented with indigenous yeasts, aged in French oak (0-25% new) and bottled with no fining or filtration. The 2009 saw a fairly high percentage of whole clusters ranging from 50-100%. These are gorgeous, pure wines from an inspired, young producer whose career will be fascinating to follow. All of the Pinots were in bottle at the time of my June visit, while the Grenache and the three Syrahs I tasted were scheduled to be bottled in August.Tel. (805) 331-2292; www.samsarawine.com