The 2015 Helmsman is 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, aged 20 months in French oak. From its nose—where hints of pencil shavings accent cassis and dried herbs—to the firm, muscular palate, this wine evokes visions of modern, fruit-forward Bordeaux, with enough restraint and structure to further suggest Saint-Julien or Pauillac. The blackcurrant fruit remains cool and refreshing, while the medium to full-bodied wine's tannins are smooth but powerful, lingering on the velvety finish. It's not unapproachable, but it should be better in 5 years and mature in 10.

The 2014 Helmsman is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc, aged 18 months in 50% new French oak. While it lacks some of the immediate plushness of the Brokenstone, it exceeds that wine in its floral aromas, aristocratic bearing and length. Cassis, flowers and dried herbs mark the nose, while the cassis fruit is kept in check on the palate by ripe tannins and hints of pencil shavings, which linger enticingly on the finish.

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, the deep garnet-purple coloured 2013 Helmsman exudes cassis, crushed blackberries and cloves notes with pencil shavings and dried herbs nuances. The medium-bodied palate delivers beautiful balance with finely grained, approachable tannins and lively acid supporting the primary black fruit, finishing with very good persistence.

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, the 2010 Helmsman displays a deep garnet-purple color and notes of cassis, black plums and mulberries with underlying suggestions of cedar, toast, damp loam and bay leaf. Medium to full bodied with a great concentration of black berry, earth and spice flavor layers, it has a solid backbone of firm, finely grained tannins and crisp acid, finishing long. Approachable now, it should drink best 2014 to 2024+. Importer: Station Imports, PO Box 61509, Colorado Springs, CO 80960-1509 Tel 719 633 2184

Aged for 18-months in French barriques, the 2007 Helmsman has an introverted nose and despite coaxing it reluctantly offers blackberry, wild mushroom, mulberry, violet and blueberry that really blossom after five minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with a firm tannic grip. Good balance with a stern backbone and linearity towards the finish, the Helmsman ’07 needs a few years to lose its broody character. But there is certainly more than enough structure and fruit intensity here and it constitutes a great Hawkes Bay wine. Drink now-2017. Tony Bish continues to produce some outstanding examples of Hawkes Bay wine and their Helmsman stood shoulder to shoulder with an array of top Bordeaux 2005s at a blind tasting in 2009. Their entry-level Gunn Estate wine form a superb introduction to the delights of the region’s wines, in particular their Skeetfield Chardonnay. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa, CA; www.diageo.com