The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon features notions of black currants, Asian spices, violets, and smoke. In the glass it opens to reveal a bit of structure, spicy flavors, good depth, and a lengthy, pure finish. Drink this concentrated effort over the next 4-5 years. All three Rutini wines are excellent values.Importer: Pasternak Wine Imports, Harrison, NY; www.pasternakwine.com

The purple-colored 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon displays an attractive aromatic array of wood smoke, spice box, violets, black currant, and blackberry. Smooth-textured and friendly on the palate, this well-balanced, medium-long wine will drink well through 2015.Importer: Pasternak Wines, Harrison, NY; tel. (800) 946-3110

The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon also spent 12 months in 50% new French oak. The reticent bouquet surrenders aromas of cedar, damp earth, cassis, and black currant leading to an elegantly styled wine owing more to Bordeaux than California. Smooth-textured and flavorful, it possesses enough ripe tannin to evolve for a year or two. This well-balanced effort offers value as well as a six year drinking window. The Rutini winery, now owned by Nicolas Catena, was founded in 1885 and currently owns vineyards in five different regions of Mendoza.Importer: Pasternak Wines, Harrison, NY; tel. (800) 946-3110; www.pasternakwines.com

A well-oaked wine with some modern touches. It’s ripe and ready but not overdone; the flavors are of raspberry and light resin, but not much else. Like many 2005s, this Cab shows a subdued personality and less-than-expressive fruit. It’s good and inoffensive, but it doesn’t make you take notice.——M.S.(5/1/2008)—— 86