From the pitch-black color you can tell this is an enormously extracted wine. It shows the stuffing of this famous vineyard’s Zins, with blackberries, loganberries, cherries, licorice, leather and cocoa-laced coffee, and is quite tannic. But it’s diminished by what tastes like notable sugar in the finish, even though the alcohol is over 15%.——S.H.(12/1/2007)—— 84