The pure Cari?ena 2012 Camí de Corma is sourced from three small plots of old, head-pruned vines from alluvial soils that give very low yields. It looks like the élevage was shortened to 12 months, but the wine is still little oaky. Besides those oak-related aromas there are plenty of earthy notes, balsamic and with a core of ripe black berries. There is good balance in the palate, fine tannins, moderate acidity and supple flavors. 3,460 bottles produced.

The 2010 Cami de Cormes Samso is produced with Carinena grapes from an old vineyard planted 117 years ago on sandy-clay soils, but some crazy law is preventing the producers from using the grape name and they are advised to use Samso, instead, which is a big mistake, as Samso is the Catalan for Cinsault (the pronunciation would be more or less the same), but there you go. The wine aged in 400-liter French oak barrels during 16 months. It has an alluring, aromatic nose of blueberries, violets, subtle oak, sweet spices and smoked meats, balanced and very smooth, elegant, velvety, with extra-fine tannins and great, clean acidity. This is a superb, elegant rustic Carinena, well worth the asking price. Drink now-2020. This is a new name, a family winery created in 2004, but with a long tradition as grape growers. They own some exceptional vineyards like a centenary plot of Carinena where they source the fruit for the Cami de Cormes, a really impressive and profound wine well worth its price. Importer: CSCS Imports Inc, West Warwick, RI; tel. (401) 825-7920, www.cscscorp.org

The 2007 Cami de Cormes is sourced from two parcels of old vine Samso aged for 14 months in three-year-old French oak. It has a lovely, very natural bouquet with crisp blackberries, bilberry and oyster shell that is crisp and precise. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet entry of marmalade and dark cherry fruit that segue into a well-defined, citrus fresh finish with orange rind and a touch of dried blood. This is a very natural, engrossingly pure Carinena. Roig Parals was founded in 2005. They own 11 hectares of vine – two plots with vines up to 116 years old. Tasting inside the winery, conditions did appear rather cramped, but fortunately a new, more spacious facility is being built. Importer: James Peltier; no telephone number available.

The 2006 Cami de Corma is 100% old-vine Samso displaying brooding black fruits, a plush, layered personality, and enough structure to reward 4-6 years of cellaring. Incipiently complex, the wine has outstanding volume, is nicely proportioned, and has a lengthy, pure finish. Its drinking window will extend from 2016 to 2021, perhaps longer. Importer: 31 Degrees South; www.31degreessouth.com