The thin, compact 1992 Cornas exhibits a funky, earthy, overtly herbal aroma and lacks ripeness. With airing, a touch of mushroomy rot emerges. Readers should note that I did not taste (assuming it will be produced) Michel's top cuvee of old vines, the hillside vineyard Cornas called La Geynale. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; Tel. (212) 757-8185

Dark ruby-colored, with some amber, this wine is hard and closed. Although it exhibits decent fruit, this tough, aggressive wine is so hard that I doubt it will ever be well balanced. Anticipated maturity: now? Last tasted 12/94.

A very successful 1979, this opaque garnet-colored wine remains a brawny, full-bodied Cornas that has the fruit and flesh to nearly balance out its huge tannin. Quite substantial on the palate, with very good length, this beefy wine will keep for at least another decade, but the tannin will never fully melt away. Mature now. Last tasted 12/95.