Ridge has released two top-notch Cabernet Sauvignons that are completely different in style. For those readers who lack the self-discipline to wait for the 1991 Monte Bello to develop, the 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon from the Santa Cruz Mountains is a boldly-styled, opulent, richly fruity, fat Cabernet bursting with super-ripe fruit. Loaded with glycerin, spice, and extract, it should be drunk over the next decade. Tel. (408) 867-3233.

The 1991 Cabernet Sauvignon York Creek Vineyard is not yet ready for drinking, unless you have a masochistic urge to be slammed by its considerable tannin. The dark ruby/purple color is followed by a promising nose of cassis, damp earth, and minerals. Muscular and full-bodied, with excellent density, admirable ripeness, and a moderately tannic finish, this is a wine to cellar for 2-3 years and drink through the first decade of the next century.

The 1990 is one of the best Santa Cruz offerings Ridge has made in years. Fashioned from vineyards below the famed Monte Bello vineyard, this deep ruby/purple-colored wine reveals a fragrant nose of underbrush and black fruits. Full-bodied and fleshy, with rich, jammy, black-raspberry, smoky, earthy flavors, as well as a succulent personality, this fleshy, reasonably-priced Cabernet offers a husky mouthful of wine. It should continue to drink well for 10-12 years.