The old vine designation, though unregulated, is usually reserved for plantings at least a quarter century old. Though the first sniff suggests a wine that has been over-oaked, such is not the case. It has the concentration and fruit power—layers of citrus and stone fruit flavors—along with the depth and texture that older vines bring, to more than support the generous new oak. ——P.G.(12/1/2011)—— 90