Composed of 100% Dijon clone Chardonnay, this was fermented in small stainless- steel barrels; it’s tight, sharp and crisply defined. The wine is lifted with lots of tasty spices, and the fruit is clean and tastes of apple, pear and white peach. It doesn’t try to be more than it is; the fruit is front and center. ——P.G.(11/15/2008)—— 88