Mure’s 2004 Gewurztraminer Zinnkeopfle Vendange Tardive smells almost aggressively of candied mint, citrus rind, and horseradish, with subtler suggestions of rose petal, is rather massive and decidedly bitter-sweet on the palate, and finishes with abundant brown spice but still a dominance of mint and candied citrus peel. Mure says the 2005 was more the result of desiccation and this 2004 of botrytis, and finds that his nobly sweet 2004 vintage wines are on that account in general less refined and well-balanced than those of 2005.Rene Mure has been practicing organic viticulture for a decade and is currently engaged in biodynamic experimentation as well as extensive re-planting with old selections and tight spacing, trying as he put it to take things in the vineyards back to his grandfather’s days. In these warm sites, he is particularly concerned with developing methods to brake sugar accumulation and retain acidity – but as if hedging his bets, Mure has also sought permission from the authorities to plant a small block of Syrah! Wines denoted as “Cote de Rouffach” or simply “Rene Mure” (which includes some Grand Cru Vorbourg and Zinnkoepfle bottlings) are from purchased fruit, whereas estate wines are labeled “Clos St.-Landelin.” Paradoxically, the heaviest, iron-rich (though also stony) soils in the Clos St.-Landelin are in its upper reaches, which are also the best-ventilated, and this makes in theory an ideal combination for Pinot Noir, which this domaine has been serious about for more than two decades.Imported by Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832 9083.
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