The 2015 Le Montrachet has a lifted orange blossom, peach skin and yellow flower-scented bouquet that offers much more delineation than the Batard-Montrachet. The palate is fresh and crisp on the entry with just a hint of toffee apple, a keen thread of acidity with a crisp, quite malic finish. Give this 3-4 years in bottle.

The 2014 Le Montrachet Grand Cru (from the Chassagne side) does not quite have the precision of the Batard-Montrachet on the nose: touches of lemon thyme and Granny Smith apple and a mote of chalk dust. The palate is a different proposition and puts matters in order; it is more refined on the nose and with nicely integrated oak. It is more reserved than the Batard-Montrachet, quite Zen-like but at least at this early juncture, just missing a little depth towards the finish, something merely highlighted by the Batard-Montrachet.

The 1990 Le Montrachet from Remoissenet was showing extremely well at 26 years of age -- a wine doubtlessly underestimated by those seeking "grander" exponents of this famous vineyard. The nose is exquisite with lemon thyme, freshly sliced Granny Smiths, an intriguing almost pond-like scent indicative of its age. However, there is plenty of freshness both here and on the palate, the sense of energy undiminished by the passing years, a pretty Montrachet that actually meliorates in the glass, gaining tension and mineralité over the course of an hour. This is simply excellent. Tasted June 2016.