The 2014 Puligny Montrachet 1Er Cru les Combettes has a terse, slightly flinty bouquet, tight at first and remaining linear as it reluctantly opens. The palate is very malic on the entry: plenty of green apple and fresh pear, a touch of spice developing towards the finish that has good length. I feel that this will give more once in bottle.

The 1992s all reveal ripe fruit, higher acidity than most white burgundies (remember, the malolactic was blocked), and laudable purity. The 1992 Puligny-Montrachet-Les Combettes is denser, riper, and fuller than the Puligny-Montrachet-Les Folatieres, with a smoky, buttery, hazelnut-scented nose. Rich, full, and long, it should last for a decade. Remoissenet enjoys a well-deserved reputation for his white wines. There is a tendency at this estate to block the malolactic, keep the wines off their lees, rack them frequently, and bottle them after a relatively vigorous filtration. The fact that so much remains in the wines makes one wonder what they would be like if they were not manipulated so much? Importer: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA and Stacole, Inc., Boca Raton, FL.