Ramey Wine Cellars Hudson Vineyard Chardonnay, Carneros, USA

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The 2011 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard is a brilliant effort in this tough vintage. Gorgeous aromas of hazelnuts, caramelized citrus and orange blossoms are present in this medium-bodied, richly fruity white. With adequate acidity as well as an up-front, precocious, quick-to-mature style, it should be consumed over the next 3-4 years. David Ramey has long had one of the most impressive resumes for any California winemaker. He worked at Chateau Petrus in Bordeaux and for Christian Moueix at Dominus. He also consulted and worked for a number of high end Napa Valley wineries. Of course, his first love is Ramey Wine Cellars, and he has built an extensive empire of Chardonnays, Cabernet Sauvignons and more recently Syrahs as well as a tiny quantity of Pinot Noir (talk about going to the dark side). I tasted through his 2011 Chardonnays, which are successful in this challenging vintage. The generic Chardonnays spend 12 months in 25% new oak and the single vineyard cuvees spend 20 or more months in 50% new oak. All of the whites are fermented with indigenous yeasts. Ramey has also done a terrific job with Syrah, even though he says it is nearly impossible to sell in today’s marketplace. Ramey has actually reduced the price on his two fabulous 2010 Syrahs, and it is difficult for somebody like me who loves Syrah and knows how great they can be to understand how these wines can be such a challenge in the marketplace. Ramey’s early experience was primarily with Bordeaux varietals, so it’s not surprising that he continues to do a stunning job with his assortment of Bordeaux-based wines. As one might expect, the 2011s are soft, easy-to-drink efforts that many consumers may find more appealing than the 2010s, which are much bigger, richer and more classic. Tel. (707) 473-9167

A classic California Chardonnay, the 2010 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard bursts from the palate with honey, nectarine, butterscotch, orange blossoms and flowers. Rich, plush and totally inviting, David Ramey’s Hudson is a great expression of this famous Carneros site. Beautiful, vivid and constantly changing in the glass, the 2010 is wonderfully alive and classy throughout. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Once again, I tasted an amazing range of wines with David Ramey. The Chardonnays capture a beautiful middle ground of ripe, California fruit but treated to a long, Burgundy-inspired elevage that relies on natural yeasts and no filtration, among other choices, to bring out the personality of each of the sites Ramey works with. To me, the Ramey Chardonnays have a Chassagne-like richness that is quite appealing, yet they remain laid back in style by California standards. The Cabernets run the gamut price-wise, but I find a lot to like across the entire range. The Syrahs are in some ways the outliers, because they are made by a winemaker with a very Cabernet-influenced palate. As good as Ramey’s Syrahs are, it is impossible not to notice a house style that emphasizes an overt expression of fruit over what might be termed more varietal character, especially in the regular bottling. As for the reds, the 2011 Cabernets are quite strong for the year. In 2011, Ramey bottled a far greater percentage of his juice into the entry-level Claret than normal, and saved only the best lots for the Cabernets, a decision that has paid off handsomely. The 2010s are just as fabulous as they were last year. At the end of the day, though, that is a relatively small critique for a winemaker who excels in so many ways. In my mind, Ramey is one of the top wineries in the United States. Readers who aren’t familiar with these wines owe it to themselves to check them out. Tel. (707) 433-0870

The 2009 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard impresses for its focus and nuance. Layers of chiseled, beautifully delineated fruit emerge from this sculpted Chardonnay. The Hudson is about subtlety first and foremost. Ripe apricots, freshly cut flowers, pastry, lemon, crushed rocks and French oak inform the pure, creamy finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. David Ramey is one of the few California winemakers who thinks in terms of structure, not just flavor, something that sets him apart from many of his peers. All of the wines I tasted at Ramey’s cellar just outside Healdsburg were terrific. I also sampled a number of older wines, all of which have held up very well. Best of all, most of the wines remain very fairly priced considering the quality of what is in the bottle. My visit ended with the 2001 Cabernet Jericho Canyon Road, which was stunning. At age 10 it remains an infant. I only wish I owned it. The next best thing is Ramey’s new Annum bottling from 2009 forward, the vintage in which the main vineyard source switched to Shartsis, a parcel in Rutherford close to Dana Estates’s Helms vineyard. The Pedregal, from a vineyard in Oakville, is perhaps even better, but it also costs twice as much. The appellation Chardonnays spend 12 months in oak, ranging from 20-25% new, while the vineyard designates spent 18 months in oak, with a higher percentage of new barrels. Tel. (707) 433-0870, www.rameywine.com

Normally I see more stylistic differences between the Hudson and Hyde Chardonnays, but in 2008, they are more similar than usual. The 2008 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard exhibits honeyed citrus, smoky hazelnut and buttered brioche characteristics in a medium to full-bodied, flavorful, rich, layered format. It should drink nicely for 4-5 years. Owner/winemaker David Ramey produces two levels of Chardonnay – his generic appellation cuvees and his single vineyard offerings from three top sites, the Hudson, Hyde and Ritchie vineyards. Tel. (707) 433-0870; Fax (707) 433-0871