Radio-Coteau 'La Colinas' Syrah, Sonoma Coast, USA

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I was blown away by the four Syrahs that Eric Sussman is producing. The 2013 Syrah Las Colinas comes from three cool-climate sites and is aged predominantly in 500-liter wood puncheons before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. The wine offers loads of almost C?te-R?tie-like black olive tapenade, grilled meats, steak tartare, blackberry and cassis. It is full-bodied, dense and rich, but with sweet tannin and just enough acidity for vibrancy and delineation. Drink it over the next 8-10 years.

The 2012 Syrah Las Colinas is a soft, consumer-friendly effort displaying silky tannins, plenty of red and black fruits, a hint of tapenade, a nice texture, and a forward style that suggests drinking over the next 3-4 years is warranted. (Not yet released) An impressive portfolio of wines routinely emerges from Radio Coteau, which employs organic farming, a low SO2 regime, indigenous yeast fermentations, extended sur lie aging with very little lees stirring, and bottling with no fining or filtration. Radio Coteau’s Syrahs continue to be splendid efforts despite the doldrums the Syrah marketplace seems to be experiencing. These wines tend to use 10% to 17% whole clusters and are generally aged 20 or more months in French puncheons. www.radiocoteau.com

The 2011 Syrah Las Colinas is very closed in on itself, most likely because of its recent bottling. Today, it is the wine’s fruit that comes through most clearly of all. Although the Colinas appears to have excellent potential, it also clearly needs time. Based on how previous vintages have blossomed, I would say another 2-3 years is optimal. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2026. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578

The 2010 Syrah Las Colinas is laced with blackberries, graphite, asphalt, tar, licorice and tons of varietal nuances. Just as fabulous as it has always been, the 2010 is closing down a bit in bottle, but not enough to materially detract from the pure pleasure it provides. Savory herbs, black pepper and game add layers of complexity on a firm finish that ensures the 2010 will drink well for at least a decade. The 2010 Las Colinas is a modern-day California classic from Radio-Coteau. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578

The 2009 Syrah Las Colinas is marvelous. In this vintage, the Las Colinas has tremendous fruit density but perhaps a touch less in the way of varietal aromas and flavors. Still, it is impossible not to love the 2009 for its voluptuous personality and terrific overall balance. In 2009, the Colinas is all about fruit intensity. Still a bit exuberant, the 2009 could use another year or two in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578