Radio-Coteau La Neblina Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, USA

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I tasted four Pinot Noirs from Sussman. He has consistently done a fine job with this tricky and fickle variety. The 2014 Pinot Noir La Neblina comes from multiple sites. He uses about 15% whole clusters. The vineyards are planted in Goldridge soils, and the clonal selections involved include Dijon clones 777, 115, 828 and the Calera and Mt. Eden selections. The wine spent about 17 months in 28% new French oak and displays loads of sweet and sour cherries, Asian plum, loamy soil, tobacco leaf and strawberry in a soft, medium-bodied, juicy and seductive style. Drink it over the next 7-8 years.

Bottled unfined and unfiltered, the 2013 Pinot Noir La Neblina is from an organically farmed vineyard planted in Goldridge soils. This is generally from Dijon clones with a little bit of Mt. Eden. The wine is round, juicy, with dark berry fruit, tobacco leaf and forest floor notes, medium body and soft tannins. It should drink nicely for at least 7-10 years.

The five 2012 barrel samples of Pinot Noir I tasted include the dark ruby-colored 2012 Pinot Noir La Neblina which comes from Dijon clones planted in the famous Goldridge soils of the region. Aged 18 months in 30% new French oak, it offers lots of cranberry, strawberry and pomegranate notes along with forward, savory, flattering fruit, medium body and a soft texture. It is best drunk over the next 3-4 years. (Not yet released) An impressive portfolio of wines routinely emerges from Radio Coteau, which employs organic farming, a low SO2 regime, indigenous yeast fermentations, extended sur lie aging with very little lees stirring, and bottling with no fining or filtration. Radio Coteau’s Syrahs continue to be splendid efforts despite the doldrums the Syrah marketplace seems to be experiencing. These wines tend to use 10% to 17% whole clusters and are generally aged 20 or more months in French puncheons. www.radiocoteau.com

The 2011 Pinot Noir La Neblina has good up-front density in its perfumed red fruit. At times a bit delicate and fragile, this gracious, medium-bodied wine is probably best enjoyed over the next few years. The purity of the fruit is impossible to miss. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578

The 2010 Pinot Noir La Neblina is a gorgeous wine laced with expressive dark red cherries, flowers, licorice and sweet spices. It shows gorgeous depth and radiance in its fruit. Bright floral notes and an underpinning of vibrant minerality give the wine considerable lift and brightness. Freshly cut flowers, mint and sweet roses frame an energetic finish layered with distinctly saline notes. This is a fabulous showing. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. I was only able to taste a handful of wines from Radio-Coteau, but I will be addressing that oversight in the near future. These are some of the most compelling wines being made in California. Proprietor Eric Sussman pursues organic and biodynamic farming with a focus on cooler, marginal growing sites. In the cellar the wines are made with ambient yeasts and natural malolactic fermentations. The wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered with the exception of the Chardonnay, which is lightly fined. Yields were down dramatically in 2010, mostly because of the lower crop set. The Pinots saw 5 days of cold soak followed by 15-17 days of fermentation. The Syrahs are potentially even more interesting, but I wasn’t able to taste a fully representative set of wines. Tel. (707) 823-2578; www.radiocoteau.com