A simple, everyday red that won't break the bank. The grapes tend to get a little baked this far inland, especially Merlot, which really needs just the right conditions to maintain delicacy and balance. As a result the dominant notes are earthy, with a slightly baked or raisiny quality. The tannins, needless to say, are soft, and the acidity is low. ——S.H.(11/15/2000)—— 82