Quinta do Zambujeiro Monte do Castanheiro Vinho Regional Alentejano, Portugal

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The 2009 "Monte Do Castanheiro" is a blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira and Tinta Caiada with a dollop of Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 12 months in used French oak. Pure and fragrant, it is nicely balanced, with soft tannins. It is a little light in the mid-palate with little concentration and a bit short on the finish. However, it is quite gracious and charming, juicy and simply delicious. This elegant and graceful wine should be early maturing, and I suspect it will not hold at peak all that long, but while young and fresh, its purity and juicy fruit will make Zambujeiro a lot of friends. Drink now-2016. Importer: World Wine Headquarters, tel. (800) 485-5753

The 2008 “MONTE DO CASTANHEIRO” is another nice vintage for this wine. Although I have a slight preference for the 2007 reviewed this issue, this shows pretty nicely, too. Round and velvety in texture, laced with some game nuances on opening, most of which blow off with aeration, it has a moderately intense finish. Lush on opening, it proves it has structure, too, as it airs out. Drink now-2017. Importer: HGC Imports, San Jose, CA; tel: (408) 947-8511

The 2007 “MONTE DO CASTANHEIRO” is this very fine boutique’s entry level, but it is often charming and this may be the best one I’ve had yet. It is a kitchen sink blend of Trincadeira, Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet, Castelao and Cabernet Sauvignon. Refined and elegant, with a soft, velvety texture, this gains a little complexity with air and shows some structure and some backbone, too. Indeed, it can seem relatively powerful after it wakes up and airs out. It is quite attractive, starting sexy and flavorful, with touches of sweet oak on the finish from its 12 months in French oak, but it ends with some character and intensity. There was a touch of alcohol noticeable after extended aeration, but only a touch. The only real criticism is that after it was open a couple of hours, it finally started to fade, which isn’t a terrible critique in this price range. This particular bottling is not currently available in the USA, but runs around 10 Euros in Portugal, which makes it quite a bargain there. This is not a wine that will drop off a cliff and fall apart suddenly, but it will be best in the short to mid-term, however long it holds. Drink now-2017. Importer: HGC Imports, San Jose, CA; tel: (408) 947-8511

The 2004 Monte do Castanheiro is soft and a bit simple, but nonetheless rather flavorful and tasty. It has an easy feel to it, some charm, and some juicy fruit that I rather liked. It is a blend of Trincadeira, Aragonez, Castelao, Alicante Bouschet, and Cabernet Sauvignon. It is cherry nuanced, and simply tastes good. After a little aeration, I did get a certain gamey note on the finish, but I rather liked that, too. The finish is short, and the wine is a bit too simple to really fall in love with, though. Drink now-2009. Importer: Truman Wines, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 994-9030