The 2009 ESCOLHA, an oak-aged white Loureiro, is a classic Ameal Loureiro—elegant but with subtle intensity, able to age gracefully and improve with air. Revisited several months after my first taste, it has settled down, fleshed out a bit and improved, not what you expect to hear about aging Vinho Verde. Its harmony was always its best point, but if anything that is even better now. Everything is perfectly integrated, most especially including the oak which does not get in the way of transparency here at all. Yet, with air, it continues to improve in the glass and its fine acidity breaks through. If all the best Loureiros are a bit on the elegant and subtle side—these are not “wow” wines as they emphasize precision and transparency--this one has its gentle reticence matched by subtle intensity that keeps it vibrant as it airs out. There were just 4,200 bottles produced. Drink now-2016. Importer: IPO Wines, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 243-9463

This is a rarity —wood-aged Vinho Verde. It works beautifully, the floral flavors of the Loureiro grape balanced with a smooth texture. The green fruit flavors dominate, just broadened by the wood.——R.V.(12/15/2010)—— 92

The exceptional 2008 ESCOLHA, the winery’s special selection, in essence, is Loureiro aged in French oak for 6 months, coming in at 12% alcohol. There were 5,000 bottles produced. This tends to be a wine that ages very well from this winery, more than the reputation of the region or the rather delicate grape would normally allow. There are certainly other wines in the region that can age, but Ameal, with its focus on the rather delicate Loureiro grape, certainly marches to a different drummer here, even suggesting that this be decanted for an hour before serving. Indeed, it showed much better with air, integrating its oak over a couple of hours (one hour is really not enough at this point in its young life, tasted in July, 2010) and becoming a more complete wine with persistence and a lingering finish. The oak is always going to be the issue in Vinho Verde, even more so with a grape like Loureiro. Even when well integrated, it simply won’t be everyone’s cup of tea. Here, it gives the wine a more brooding demeanor than the unoaked Loureiro reviewed this issue, but while there is little of that “vanilla milkshake” demeanor or flavoring, it occasionally showed some sweet oak nuances as it aired out, plus a little of that sour lemon ball note that some crisp, dry whites can get. It also largely moved past that as it continued to air out, and cellaring should answer any remaining questions, too, an interesting projection in Vinho Verde from so many perspectives. Considering how much substance there is here, it is fair to say it has some upside and a likelihood of matching or surpassing some predecessors that aged quite well, integrating the oak as they went along. Drink now-2014. Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 243-9463

The 2007 ESCOLHA, a special selection, is 100% Loureiro. Although it spent 6 months in French oak hogsheads, it seems clean and crisp, pure and powerful, while retaining the delicacy of Loureiro, the grape that often seems to come out second best in the Vinho Verde sweepstakes to Alvarinho. Fruity and flavorful, yet possessed of that fine acidity the best Vinhos Verdes have, this will be a pleasure to drink young, but should hold for a few years, too. I do think this year will be best on the younger side. Drink now-2011. Importer: Eric Solomon, Charlotte, N.C.; tel: (704) 358-1565; Katell Pleven Offerings, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 243-9463