Bold and fragrant, with aromas of cassis, cherry and oak. The only flaw to the bouquet is a touch of weedy greeness, but it’s slight. The flavor profile is all berries: black currant, cherry, raspberry and strawberry. The finish is racy, with a healthy acidic streak. There’s no shortage of pop and verve, although deepness and richness are absent. ——M.S.(12/1/2002)—— 86