The 2009 Syrah comes across as big, rich and powerful. There is good depth, dark red fruit, smoke, licorice and earthiness, yet a few angular contours remain, leaving an impression of rusticity. This is the only wine I tasted at Plumpjack that was disappointing. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. I have been following Plumpjack since first visiting the winery nearly a decade ago. This is a stunning set of wines from winemaker Tony Biagi, who has succeeded in achieving both astonishing richness and finesse pretty much across the board.Tel. (707) 945-1220

Plumpjack has also produced some very intriguing Syrahs, and the 2008 follows that path of success. Complex notes of roasted meats, forest floor, flowers, pepper, and spice along with a boatload of red and black fruits jump from the glass of this dark plum/ruby/purple-colored wine. Silky smooth, totally alluring, and as sexy as can be, this is a Syrah to drink over the next 5-6 years. It certainly makes one wonder why these wines are so difficult to sell, given their quality.Tel. (707) 945-1220; Fax (707) 944-0744

One of Napa Valley’s finest Syrahs is Plumpjack’s offering. The blockbuster 2007 Syrah was produced from two sources, the Stagecoach Vineyard in Oakville and Carneros’ Hudson Vineyard. This wine, which includes 35% whole clusters, exhibits an incredible perfume of creosote, blackberries, bacon fat, licorice, and a subtle touch of peppers as well as truffles. Sweet tannins, palate-staining levels of richness, and a sumptuous mouthfeel with no hard edges are the stuff of Syrah dreams. It’s a steal at this price, and should evolve easily for a decade or more. Winemaker Tony Biagia continues to fashion prodigious wines for both the Getty family and its partner, San Francisco’s mayor, Gavin Newsom. The 2007s are the most impressive group of wines Plumpjack has released to date.Tel. (707) 945-1220; Fax (707) 944-0744