Clean, elegant and with a poised balance of creaminess and spice, this is a delicate but luscious summer sip. Apricots and cloves on the nose and palate are complex but not overwhelming, and the honeyed finish lingers without unwanted weight, thanks in part to a measured acidity. Will pair well with desserts, but is good on its own.——S.K.(7/1/2007)—— 88