Consumers searching for a sparkling white wine at a reasonable price should try Sparr's non-vintage Cremant d'Alsace Brut Reserve. The lot number tasted for this report is L 10-90-6-09-81, and was produced from 80% Pinot Blanc and 20% Pinot Noir. As always, this is blend of three vintages. This excellent value has a fresh, toasty nose and an easygoing, demure, light-bodied character. Apples, pears, and extremely fine bubbles are found throughout this simple, thirst-quenching, sparkling wine. Drink it over the next 18 months. Importers: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel (914) 251-9463, and BCI, Evergreen, CO (for Wyoming and Colorado); Tel. (303) 674-2251.

An excellent representative of the Cremant category, with a beguiling mix of fresh cherry-almond fruit interlaced with caramel and bergamot tones. This has some weight on the palate, enough to make it a good partner for light fish dishes. ——W.E.(12/15/2009)—— 86