A barrel-fermented Clairette that will likely be reclassified as Gigondas Blanc if/when that appellation is finally approved, the 2018 Cotes du Rhone Domaine Grand Romane Blanc features spicy, cedary and honeyed aromas, only partially balanced by notes of white peaches and citrus. Medium-bodied on the palate, it remains somewhat oak-dominated and clumsy from start to finish. Like a child wearing an oversized coat, it's cute, but not the person you want to show up on date night.

Another outstanding white is the 2015 C?tes du Rh?ne Domaine Grand Romane Blanc, which is 100% Clairette that comes from higher elevation limestone soils. Notes of white peach, marmalade and citrus blossom, with integrated oak, all emerge from this medium-bodied, impeccably balanced, classy white that’s a steal at the price.