Pfaffl has experimented with a 2004 Riesling Privat from some of his ripest, steep-slope material that is unabashedly off-dry and is residing in relatively new wood, where he hopes its sweetness, wood and acids will marry perfectly over time. They taste well on the way there to me. (And I am somebody who must strain to avoid prejudice against Riesling and new wood.) The bouquet displays ripe peach, lemon oil, litchi, and pungent spices. The palate is abundantly peachy, honeyed and rich, with brown spice, vanilla, and peach pit accents. The finish sings with luscious length and intensity, enough acidity balancing the sweetness and the bitter side of vanilla and peach pit adding counterpoint. Various importers including Avatar Wine Marketing, Long Island City, NY; tel. (718) 433-0077
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