The 2010 Potenti is all Cabernet Sauvignon seen under the optics of thick concentration and bold density. There’s just a hint of rusticity here – that is so common in the wines from this wild and untamed corner of Tuscany – that may be cause for future concern if the aromas turn rubbery or bretty. It’s really too early to tell. I’d suggest caution with this wine, and recommend drinking it sooner rather than later. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. The man behind Bellavista, Contadi Castaldi (both in Franciacorta) and Tenuta La Badiola in Maremma, entrepreneur Vittorio Moretti engaged the talent of architect Mario Botta to build Petra near Suvereto in 2001. Italy’s era of the designer winery was suddenly born. The monumental building is inspired by “stone in motion,” thus the name Petra. Importer: Terra Moretti Trading USA; www.tmtrading-usa.com

The 2009 Potenti bursts from the glass with huge, super-ripe black fruit, spices, smoke, chocolate, incense and tar. This is a decidedly big, rich wine loaded with jammy fruit, but unlike so many wines in this style, it possesses remarkable polish. The big tannins need time to soften, but this is a highly promising wine. The appropriately named Potenti is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. I rarely hear Petra mentioned in a discussion of the best wines and wineries from the Tuscan coast, but year after year the wines are reliably outstanding and fairly priced for the neighborhood. The house style is one of bold, exuberant wines. Frankly, I am not sure it is possible to make anything but that type of wine in this part of Maremma. Petra is part of Vittorio Moretti’s empire, which is best known for its crown jewel, Bellavista. In 2009 the estate decided not to make their top selection, the Petra Rosso. At a time when virtually all wineries bottle their flagships pretty much every year, it is refreshing to see a winery willing to skip a vintage it deems less important. Importer: TMT USA, Inc., Manhasset, NY; tel. (210) 316-0106

The 2008 Potenti (Cabernet Sauvignon) flows from the glass with masses of explosive dark fruit. It is a big, jammy wine backed up by considerable structure that provides length and focus through to the polished finish. Mocha, espresso, herbs and spices wrap around the muscular close. The wine spent 15 months in French oak barrels, 50% new. To be released in April 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Importer: TMT USA, Inc., Manhasset, NY; tel. (210) 316-0106

The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Potenti is another sleek, refined red from Petra. Varietal Cabernet notes sit on a rich, mineral-laced frame of notable elegance. Ideally, the Potenti is best left alone in the cellar for the French oak to integrate and the tertiary aromas to develop. In a few years’ time, this will be a formidable wine, even if it is already pretty delicious. That said, it isn’t quite as complete as the flagship Petra in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2019. Petra is one of my favorite properties for intense, flavorful wines from the Suvereto district in Maremma. Importer: TMT USA, Inc., Manhasset, NY; tel. (210) 316-0106