Robust, with meaty aromas of earth, leather and oak. Quite sweet and expressive, with pulsating dark fruit and zippy, racy acidity. Drinking this is like savoring the essence of liquid fruitcake; it’s that dense. Good now, but it should improve with a couple of years on its side.——M.S.(11/15/2003)—— 92

Hailing from the town of Suvereto in the southern Maremma, this sophomore Cabernet-Merlot blend from the same owner as Bellavista and Contadi Castaldi in Franciacorta is flat-out awesome. One whiff of the bouquet says it all: earth, currant, blackberry and coffee. The palate is equally sensational—a magic carpet ride of plum fruit, pure oak and solid but forgiving tannins. Drink and enjoy any time through 2006. ——M.S.(8/1/2002)—— 95