One white wine worth noting is the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Aurore, which is a white Grenache cuvee of Chateauneuf du Pape that is honeyed, medium to full-bodied, and very pretty. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Patrick Lesec, the Frenchman who spent an important segment of his life in Santa Barbara, does a stunning job of accessing wines from old vineyards and putting together sensational blends in the southern Rhone. Everything is treated with respect for the regional typicity and character of the grapes. His strengths are the Chateauneuf du Papes, his Cotes du Rhones, as well as Vacqueyras and Gigondas. I haven’t reviewed everything that I’ve tasted, but just about anything with the Patrick Lesec label on it deserves a try as the prices are uncommonly fair for wines of such high quality. What I do find about them, since I purchase them myself, is that since they are made with minimal exposure to oxygen in a very reductive way, they often seem dormant, even dumb, when first released in the bottle. But, since they are bottled unfined and unfiltered, the full character does come forward, although it usually requires 2-4 years of bottle age, especially for the bigger wines from Chateauneuf du Pape. In any event, I consider this an unheralded source for top quality wines from a high-class negociant dedicated to artisinal winemaking.A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA 508 545 1532; Vermont Wine Merchants, Burlington, VT 802 658 6771;Noble House, New York, NY 212 736 0040; William Harrison Imports, Manassas,VA 703 815 9463; The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL 561 998 0029; Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL 708 343 6702; Silver State, Reno, NV 775 331 3400 and Wine Warehouse, Commerce, CA 323 724 1700

Strong herbaceous characteristics in the 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Aurore kept my score down. Otherwise, this 400-case offering exhibits classic aromas of kirsch liqueur, pepper, and garrigue. Medium to full-bodied, with moderate tannin, and a powerful finish, it should drink well for 8-10 years. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0039, Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, T. Edwards Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 233-1004, and Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048

The 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape Aurore comes from the same estate where Lesec is making the Cotes du Rhone Aurore. Essentially all Grenache, this is a soft, open-knit, medium to full-bodied Chateauneuf with oodles of black cherry fruit, a forward, precocious texture, and a silky finish. It is meant to be drunk during its first 7-8 years of life. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA; tel. (415) 467-0140, Atlantic Importing Co., Newton, MA; tel. (617) 965-2933, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 497-8625