The 2010 Cairanne Vieilles Vignes is a medium to full-bodied wine with dusty, loamy soil notes, a dark ruby purple color and hints of sassafras, garrigue and licorice. It is solidly made and should drink nicely for 5-6 years. (Not yet released) Over the last few years, Patrick Lesec has been reducing the size of his portfolio. I don’t know whether he is narrowing his focus, or looking forward to his retirement, but there are certainly many fewer cuvees than there were a decade ago. Nevertheless, the overall quality of his work in the southern Rhone remains very good. This is also a source for some terrific values, as evidenced by the following two wines. Importer: Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532, who distributes to wholesalers in 20 different states. Readers are advised to call them for availability in their region.

This wine is slightly compressed, earthy, and rustic, without the charm of its siblings. The tannin is also drier and more austere. It may flesh out and soften before it is bottled. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 993-0029, Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799, and Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901

The tannic, structured, impressive, dark ruby-colored 2001 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Cairanne Vieilles Vignes (70% Grenache, 15% Counoise, 10% Carignan, and the rest Syrah and Mourvedre) is a powerful, earthy, animalistic offering that will undoubtedly be controversial given its meaty/animal fur characteristics. It’s an impressive effort from Cairanne. Give it 12-18 months of cellaring, and consume it over the following decade. Importer: a Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0039, Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901; Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048; and Vintage ’59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218

The deep ruby-colored 1999 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Cairanne Vieilles Vignes (60% Grenache and the rest Syrah, Carignan, and Mourvedre) reveals notes of lavender, pepper, and cherries, as well as rustic tannin in the austere finish. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0039, Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, T. Edwards, New York, NY; Patrick Burke Pburke@tedwardwines.com; tel. 212-233-1504 ext. 209; and Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048

A fine offering is the 1998 Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne Vieilles Vignes, a blend of 70% Grenache, 10% Counoise, 10% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre aged in tank. It offers lots of structure with an underlying resiny, balsam wood character to the fat, chewy, kirsch and herb-tinged fruit. Rich, medium to full-bodied, and exuberant/robust, it will drink well for 5-6 years. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA; tel. (415) 467-0140, Atlantic Importing Co., Newton, MA; tel. (617) 965-2933, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 497-8625