The 2003 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Cairanne possesses plenty of personality, with an earthy, root vegetable, and funky terroir character. This full-bodied, dense, tannic, rich sleeper of the vintage is slightly animal/rustic, so readers weaned on fruit-forward, New World wines may find this shocking to their sensitivities. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0029,Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799, Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901, and Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048