The dark ruby-colored 2009 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Rasteau reveals high levels of tannin along with notions of white chocolate and kirsch as well as a massive mouthfeel. Even though the tannins are somewhat brutal, I think this wine will turn out fine although it leans toward the rustic, uncivilized side of Rasteau. It needs 2-4 years of bottle age. (Not yet released)Well-known negociant Patrick Lesec, whose collection of high quality southern Rhone wines has always been somewhat under consumers’ radar, seems to be cutting back on the number of offerings he produces. His finest vintages to date have been 2007, 2005 and some early years such as 2000 and 2001. His 2009s are all very good efforts, but perhaps less impressive than the previously mentioned vintages. Nevertheless, there are some top bargains to be had in Lesec’s portfolio. Lesec used to offer a half dozen or so Chateauneuf du Papes, but he has cut this down to just three cuvees in 2009.Importer: Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532, who distributes to wholesalers in 20 different states. Readers are advised to call them for availability in their region.