The 2001 Alcineo, now with some Cabernet to accompany the Sangiovese, is much different in character than the all-Sangiovese 2000 edition of the wine. The tonality is more ruby, the vanilla and black fruit notes are more perceptible, and the flavors, intense and very sustained, are very much in contrast with those of the lush, supple, and velvety 2000 Alcineo. More international in personality, to be sure, and something has been gained. But perhaps something has been lost as well. Drink: 2004-2015. Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-9650

A relatively new producer in the eastern part of the zone, Palazzo’s 2000 Alcineo, a 100% Sangiovese aged in small barrels, is the first vintage I have tasted of this wine. A vivid ruby/garnet, its expansive, spicy nose of cinnamon, cloves, and incense is well balanced by the ripe cherry and red currant fruit. Medium to full-bodied but with superior energy, continuity, and length, the rise in the volume level on the finish and the presence of some attractive light tannins indicate that, despite the elegance of style, there are some aging prospects as well. Drink: 2004-2010.Importer: Bedford International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-9650

The 1999 Alcineo (100% barrique-aged Sangiovese) reveals more complexity than the Brunello. Its spicy, cedary, strawberry, cherry, new saddle leather, and underbrush-scented bouquet is followed by a medium to full-bodied wine with fine ripeness as well as sweetness, and a long, glycerin-imbued, spicy finish. Drink it over the next 6-7 years.Importer: Bedford Brands International, Larchmont, NY; tel. (914) 833-2725