A pungently spicy and carnal bouquet of smoked meats, cinnamon and rich berry fruit introduce the 2018 Santenay Village, a medium-bodied, richly tannic wine with a meaty core of fruit and lively acids. Though it's rather rustic, even a little animal in style, it remains nicely balanced.

The 2017 Santenay Village wafts from the glass with an expressive bouquet of cherries, raspberries, cinnamon and forest floor. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, with powdery tannins, ripe acids and a nicely balanced, flavorful profile. This is a decided success for Olivier Leflaive.

The bright, medium to dark ruby-colored 1999 Santenay has blackberry and cherry aromas. It is a well-made, suave, and juicy, medium-bodied wine, loaded with sweet cherries and jammy strawberries. Its tannins are sweet, round, and beautifully ripened. Drink it over the next 4 years. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700.