A most interesting wine, and one that has a lot to teach aficionados of overextracted fruit and oak. It doesn’t need those props, because it has enough vitality on its own. It’s earthy, mushroomy and strawberry-plummy, and tastes like a melange of those elements sauteed in olive oil. Dry tannins let you appreciate the flavors and structure. —S.H.——S.H.(5/1/2002)—— 89