Mumm’s top cuvee, and its most French in terms of smoothness and elegance. Smells beautiful, with delicate notes of peach, strawberry, roasted hazelnuts, smoke, vanilla and dough, and eases over the palate with a creamy grace. It’s pretty austere now, showing tart limes, but has the concentration and balance for aging.——S.H.(12/1/2003)—— 91