A crowd pleasing sparkler for its intricate melange of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir flavors, rich moussy texture, crisp acids and just-right dosage. The cherry and lime flavors are edged with smoky vanilla honey and taste just great. Almost addictively good.——S.H.(12/31/2004)—— 92

Mumm’s top cuvee, and its most French in terms of smoothness and elegance. Smells beautiful, with delicate notes of peach, strawberry, roasted hazelnuts, smoke, vanilla and dough, and eases over the palate with a creamy grace. It’s pretty austere now, showing tart limes, but has the concentration and balance for aging.——S.H.(12/1/2003)—— 91

This prestige cuvee honors Guy Devaux, who founded the California winery, and takes the familiar, user-friendly house style to an unprecedented level of intensity. The concentrated, beguiling nose suggests cask-conditioned ale and freshly baked bread. The wine fills every corner of the palate with rich, seductively layered flavors. The finish says California, not Champagne, with its tart fruit and spice. ——P.G.(12/15/2000)—— 89