Quite rich for Mumm’s annual lineup, with citrus and melon flavors, maybe because a third of the blend is Pinot Gris. It’s fully dry, with a crisp mouthfeel and a yeasty finish. Light and elegant through the finish. ——S.H.(12/1/2002)—— 88

It’s hard to keep the Chardonnay from getting ripe in California, and so this bubbly has strong, fruity notes from the citrus and peach-accented aromas through the peachy finish. Of course there’s toast, and the rough scour of acidity. It’s quite clean and refreshing, but definitely a warm-climate sparkling wine.——S.H.(12/15/2000)—— 86