The Montecariano 2016 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore has aged slowly and gracefully to show extra dimension and good depth. The bouquet has dried fruits like fig and apricot, as well as spicy notes of tar and toasted cinnamon. The wine is streamlined and polished in terms of mouthfeel. If you catch this bottle now, you've hit a good time in its drinking window. Only 5,300 bottles exist.

The 2014 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore is made with the same blend of grapes you find in the top-shelf Amarone. Only here, the wine shows more primary fruit with dried cherry and raspberry instead. It's a good pork-and-onion risotto pairing. There are lingering tones of smoke and spice, but this wine shows a lighter constitution overall and a more accessible drinking style. Some 8,000 bottles were made.

Minty cherry cake. First signs of oxidation with fruit cake finish. Refreshing acidity. Alcoholic finish.