The Michele Chiarlo 2019 Gavi del Comune Gavi Rovereto is a generous and nicely fleshed-out expression of the Cortese grape. It offers pretty tones of peach and orchard fruit, but the Rovereto is also especially defined by tropical notes of papaya and pineapple. There's a spicy element to the fruit that could offset a salade au chèvre chaud with toasted bread and Dijon vinaigrette.

This vineyard site has dark marlstone soils, which are rare here. Most of the rest of the appellation sees white soils instead. The 2018 Gavi del Comune Gavi Rovereto opens to fragrant aromas of citrus, anise, crushed rock and even a tangy touch of spring onion. The bouquet of this wine is full and generous, with candied orange skin and preserved lemon, ending with a dusty mineral signature that is characteristic of the Rovereto vineyard site. You can no longer write "Gavi di Gavi" on the label. Now it must read "Gavi del Comune di Gavi."