The 2021 Corton Le Rognet Grand Cru is the king of the cellar this year, unwinding in the glass with aromas of cassis, dark berries and sweet spices, followed by a full-bodied, ample and layered palate that's fleshy and broad-shouldered, with impressive depth and density for the vintage but also all of the year's inherent charm and finesse.

Sensual and perfumed, Mallard's 2017 Corton Le Rognet Grand Cru bursts with aromas of peonies, orange rind, sweet spices, red berries and plums. Full-bodied, ample and layered, it's seamless and charming, with terrific depth at the core and melting structuring tannins.

The 2016 Corton le Rognet Grand Cru, which as slightly more whole cluster than the other red grand crus from Mallard, has more opulence than the Marechaudes but perhaps not quite the same degree of finesse and mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe black fruit tinged with marmalade and licorice, bold in style but everything kept in check by the acidity. It feels very long on the finish, but I would like to see it evolve more grace.

The 2015 Corton Le Rognets Grand Cru, which had no SO2 during vinification and underwent berry by berry de-stemming, has a clean and precise bouquet: black cherries, spice box, hints of blueberry and cold limestone aromas. The palate is very precise on the entry. There is crisp acidity here, quite structured with a broody blackberry and boysenberry finish, leaving a chalky residue on the aftertaste. This is an almost clinical Corton Le Rognet that will age with style.